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What’s the best mountain hiking destination for me? All Walking Softly trips allow you to choose your hike each day—you can select a less difficult or a more difficult option depending on your hiking abilities and preferences. However, remember that the quality and extent of trail networks and hiking infrastructure can vary from one mountain region to the next. Consequently, the nature of the hiking experience varies from destination to destination. Each mountain region has its own character and offers its own brand of trail experience. We present the following information to help you compare the features of each mountain range and the hiking opportunities it offers. (Consult our Trail Samplers for specific examples of the hiking options available on Walking Softly trips.) Since returning from our adventures… we’ve had numerous opportunities to share with friends and family what a super time we had—and how much we appreciated our tour directors who are a fine combination of geographer/historian/art critic/raconteur/mountain goat/beer and wine connoisseur/translator/mountain rescue team/mother superior…and the list goes on. --DOUG AND DENISE WHITE |
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Italian Dolomites. The graceful yet imposing spires and pinnacles of the Italian Dolomites
rise above verdant meadows, deep forests, and valleys filled with alpine villages
creating one of the most beautiful and intimate mountain landscapes on the planet. There is nothing anywhere that quite compares to the elegant forms of the peaks of the Dolomites! At first glance, the jagged silhouettes of these mountains might suggest that they are more the realm of mountaineers than of hikers. But amidst the jaw-dropping splendor of peaks winds a network of trails that caters to the full range of hiking abilities. Stroll across the Alpe di
Siusi, one of Europe’s most extensive alpine meadowlands, or amble along paths that traverse ridgetops high above tree-line where 360-degree panoramas of a sea of peaks await. If you’re sure of foot and have a head for heights, you can attempt the Dolomites’ distinctive and challenging
vie ferrate ("iron ways") where cables and ladders bolted into the mountainside assist your passage. |
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There are plenty of cable cars and chairlifts to give you a boost, and along the trail mountain huts (rifugi) await with cappuccino, minestrone, and apple strudel! Distinctive accommodations and warm hospitality are provided by innkeepers who speak Ladin—a language formed from the melding of Latin with the ancient languages of the mountain people. The Ladin language and culture are grace notes in the glorious symphony of landscape and people that is the Dolomites. Situated on the "sunny side of the Alps," the Dolomites are a perfect choice for a first encounter with Europe’s mountains! See the Dolomites trips: Best Hikes in the Dolomites and Dolomites for Walkers. | |
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Carpathian
Mountains. The Carpathians
are Europe's second great mountain range. Though longer in geographic
extent than the Alps, the nine hundred mile long Carpathians are often
overshadowed by their better-known neighbor, and their landscapes have
remained largely unknown to most North Americans seeking to hike in
Europe's mountains. Walking Softly's Carpathian mountain trip takes you
northward from Budapest to Krakow traversing a diversity of central
European mountain landscapes in Hungary, Slovakia, and Poland. This trip
offers you a comprehensive view of the Carpathian Mountains taking you
across the entire breadth of the range from the vast plains of the
Carpathian Basin at their southern foot to the Vistula River valley at the
base of their northern slopes. Just north of Budapest, the bucolic, gently rolling hills of northern Hungary mark the modest beginnings of the Carpathians as they
begin their rise. In Hungary, the best mountain hiking is in the Bükk National Park which protects a small densely forested range of
karst (limestone) mountains punctuated by grassy, open meadows. In Slovakia, the terrain rears up in a jumble of forested ridges increasing in height as you proceed northward. Large travertine ridges in Slovakia’s Spis region make for glorious walking in a landscape
accented by ruined castles, onion-domed churches, and walled towns. Up to this point, forest and rural landscapes predominate, and Baroque towns and mountain villages provide inviting opportunities to discover the cultural riches of the Carpathians. The
Carpathian uplift culminates on the Slovak-Polish border in the dark, rocky, and majestic peaks of the Tatra Mountains, the
highest and only truly alpine portion of the entire Carpathian mountain range. Here, glacier-carved crags soar above surrounding forests of beech, fir and spruce. This compact cluster of peaks is protected in national parks on both sides of the border and has been designated an international Biosphere Reserve. Many endemic, rare and protected species including the chamois, marmot, brown bear, falcon and golden eagle take refuge in the Tatras. Laboriously-built stone paths and stairways snake up into the mountains and comprise a significant portion of the Tatra Mountain trail network. Hiking routes are well established, signed and blazed. Mountain chalets (schronisko in Polish;
chata in Slovak) are regularly encountered and offer meals and beverages to hikers. Noteworthy
hiking experiences available on Walking Softly's trip across the Carpathians include an ascent (aided by boardwalks and ladders) up one of the narrow stream gorges of Slovakia’s
Slovensky Raj ("Slovak’s Paradise") National Park, a hike to the summit of Poland’s highest peak (Rysy), and a day-long traverse of the Tatra Range from south to north. |
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Bulgaria. In Bulgaria the great uplift of the Rhodope Mountains is broken into several ranges. The most magnificent of these are the Rila and Pirin Mountains both protected in national parks and containing some of the wildest high mountain landscapes remaining in Europe. These
mountains offer the finest mountain hiking in Bulgaria with deeply wooded foothills and a glorious lake-filled high country that rivals similar areas in the Alps and Pyrenees. A third range which the Bulgarians call the Rodopi Mountains are lower, drier and less rugged. Nevertheless, they are attractive in their own right offering pine-scented mountain walks through well-preserved traditional mountain villages. Bulgarian mountain trails are well-signed (if you can read the Cyrillic alphabet) and generally well-defined though often narrow and rocky. The rugged terrain is relieved here and there by lush streamside meadowlands where the walking is easier. You’ll encounter mountain huts
(called hizha in Bulgarian) many of which were built in the last
forty years when hiking was promoted as a patriotic endeavor! However, the standard of service and accommodation in the huts is not up to that of Alpine counterparts. Notable Bulgarian hikes include a trail crossing of the Pirin range as well as hikes to the summits of Musala and Vichren—the former the highest European mountain between the Alps and the Caucasus and the latter the highest summit in the Pirin range and second highest in Bulgaria.
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As one of the least densely populated countries in Europe (only Scandinavia, Ireland and the Baltic countries have lower densities), Bulgaria’s landscape is full of open space and broad vistas, and the country offers a particularly warm welcome to visitors! Walking Softly is one of the first American companies to offer scheduled hiking trips in Bulgaria, and our Bulgarian colleagues are skilled at the art of opening doors to rich experiences with Bulgarian food, music, and culture in the mountain villages and resorts. A two-night stay in one of the finest mountain inns in Europe and encounters with two of Bulgaria’s most stunning orthodox monasteries round out an experience with this exotic destination! See the Mountains of Bulgaria trip itinerary. | |
 5 The Bucegi Mountains from the east  5 Ancient mugo pines, Bucegi plateau |
Romania.
Romania's "showcase" mountains are the storied Transylvanian
Alps, a 225 mile-long range running west to east across the country. The
Transylvanian Alps (known as the Carpaţii Meridionali in
Romanian) comprise the southernmost extent of the great Carpathian
Mountains. The Transylvanian Alps are composed of several mountain
groups, or massifs, each offering distinctive landscapes and hiking
opportunities. The eastern end of the Transylvanian Alps is anchored by
the Bucegi Mountains known for their extensive, flower-spangled highland
meadows and dramatic glacially-carved cirques. Nearby, the craggy,
limestone "dragon-back" of the Piatra Craiului Mountains rise in
counterpoint to the more massive silhouette of the Bucegi. Spruce
forests and picturesque rural farmlands dominate the foothills of the
Piatra Craiului. |
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 5 Hiker on the Făgăraş main ridge  5 Lac Podu Giurgiului in the Făgăraş |
The central portion of the Transylvanian Alps is punctuated by the Făgăraş Mountains, perhaps the most distinctive (and quintessentially Romanian) portion of the range. Much of the high country of these mountains has been grazed for centuries and this is partly responsible for giving the mountains their scenic character. The open, grass-cloaked ridges and basins of the Făgăraş main ridge provide hikers with never-to-be-forgotten high country trail experiences! At the western end of the Transylvanian Alps rise the Retezat Mountains, perhaps Romania's wildest and best-protected mountain massif. The area lies within a national park and has also been designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Rugged and glacially-carved, the Retezat contains the greatest number of alpine lakes in the southeastern Carpathians. | |
 5 Pietrele Valley, Retezat Mountains  5 A Retezat "rock glacier" |
Romanian mountain trails are typically rugged but should pose no difficulties for those used to hiking in the mountains. The easiest high elevation hikes are probably on the Bucegi plateau whose extensive meadows can be accessed by a cable car. The Făgăraş Mountains offer spectacular ridge walks and perhaps the most rewarding mountain hiking in Romania. The Făgăraş high country can most easily be accessed via the Trans-Făgăraşan highway; other access routes involve fairly substantial elevation gains (and losses). The remote Retezat Mountains offer a diversity of mountain landscapes; some of the high country routes are rocky and require some care since they traverse the area's distinctive "rock glaciers." | |
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Fjord Norway.
Western Norway’s mountains rise sharply and directly from the ocean. These fjord-laced, "sea-level mountains" were carved by glaciers that left an imposing near vertical topography in their wake.
The rugged nature of western Norway’s fjord country dictates the rugged nature of its mountain trails, and predictably "up" is a common direction for trails in Fjord Norway! Some of the most spectacular trail adventures in Fjord Norway are along the old, almost forgotten walking routes that once linked neighboring fjord valleys with one another. These more difficult hiking routes are often nothing more than "boot-beaten" paths delineated only by rock cairns or blazes, and a distinct trail tread is frequently absent.
Vertical elevation gain can easily attain 3,000 vertical feet or more, but some of the wildest and most awe-inspiring mountain
vantage points in Europe are the reward for such an effort. For wilderness-type solitude in Europe’s mountains, Fjord Norway may be the hiker’s best bet. It is not uncommon to hike for an entire day on some mountain routes and never meet another soul. If you’re seeking less difficult walks amidst the impressive physical geography of the fjords, a number of historic roads and pathways (now completely closed to vehicular traffic) provide less physically demanding (and sometimes nearly level) hiking options. On many of these routes (reminiscent of Irish
bohereens), grass has grown over the old roadbeds making for
pleasurable hiking. A highlight of a Walking Softly visit to Fjord Norway is the hike to a cliff-top farm where a local farmer will welcome you and introduce you to the joys and struggles of making a living on a small shelf of land 1,000 feet above the waters of the fjords. |
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Pyrenees. The Pyrenees easily rival the splendor of the
Alps. They are wilder in character with a landscape less fragmented by villages and settlements than is the case in many parts of the Alps. About four thousand Pyrenean chamois, marmots, a dozen Pyrenean brown bears and the secretive desman (an aquatic mammal) are some of the wildlife species that call the Pyrenees home. The highest and most dramatic peaks of the Pyrenees are found in the central portion of the range. Here, vast tracts of Pyrenean mountain splendor are protected in France’s Pyrenees National Park and Spain’s Ordesa Monte Perdido National Park. Within the parks, the influence of human activity on the landscape has been minimized. There is consequently a general lack of "mountain transport infrastructure" (i.e. cable cars, chairlifts, etc.) in the prime hiking areas. Mountain huts are present in fair number, but they tend to be rustic with minimal food service so it pays to pack your own lunch! Large peripheral zones surround the national parks and are managed to maintain the pastoral economy and the life of the old mountain villages. Listen and you may sense the rich linguistic heritage of these mountains in the languages known as Euskara (Basque), Catalan, Occitan, Aranés, and Aragonés.
For North Americans used to hiking in national parks and wilderness areas, the Pyrenees are a great mountain hiking destination offering a good variety of trails and hiking choices. Pyrenean stream valleys are characterized by expansive streamside meadows and forest clearings so even lower elevation walks are full of enchanting mountain vistas. Never-to-be-forgotten trail journeys in the Pyrenees include the ascent to the fabulous Brèche de Roland, a large notch in the glacial arrête above France’s stupendous Cirque de Gavarnie, and hikes along the spectacular trails set in the natural fajas ("ledges") that traverse the north and south walls of Spain’s Ordesa Canyon. |
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Picos de Europa and the Cantabrian
Mountains. The Cantabrian Mountains rise like ramparts along Spain’s northern coast, their feet washed by the surprisingly turquoise-colored waters of the Cantabrian Sea. The northern slopes of the mountains enjoy a maritime climate which has created a well-watered landscape often promoted as "Green Spain." South of the Basque city of Bilbao at the eastern end of the Cantabrian Range, the
mountain massifs of the Spanish province of Vizcaya rise like rocky
islands above a multi-hued, patchworked sea of field and forest. Lesser-known hiking
routes ranging from old tracks to
rocky way trails ascend to the mountain heights from the villages below.
In the rocky Urkiola massif rises the mystical peak of Anboto, home of a legendary Basque
goddess. Some of the ridgetop hiking in this mountain group is reminiscent
of an Irish "horseshoe walk." Further to the south, traverse the unfrequented
grassy highlands atop the bulky sandstone summit of the Gorbeia Mountain at the southern edge of the Basque
Cantabrians. The crown of the Cantabrian Range is the small cluster of peaks known as the
Picos de Europa ("Peaks of Europe") allegedly named by mariners who sighted them before other landforms as they approached the European mainland by sea. The Picos de Europa are comprised of three limestone massifs separated by deep, narrow
gorges. Both the highlands and the canyons offer great hiking opportunities.
The northern slope of the Picos is exposed to maritime influences
and is consequently wetter than other portions of the range. Here,
the generally rocky character of the Picos is tempered by the green
high country meadows called vegas. Two lovely alpine lakes, a
rarity in the Picos landscape, are also found in this area. Somewhat reminiscent of the Dolomites, the towering summits of the
central Picos preside over trails that wind through a rocky, austere high country.
Picos de Europa trails, like those of the Pyrenees, are generally well defined
offering a good variety of hiking experiences. Mountain refuges are
occasionally encountered but as in the Pyrenees, they provide
minimal food service. A classic Picos de Europa hike is the vigorous
trail ascent to the base of the Naranjo de Bulnes, an imposing, orange-streaked, limestone monolith. Equally enthralling is the hike through the Cares Gorge where a superbly maintained trail is etched into vertical canyon walls; it’s one of the finest canyon walks in Europe!
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John and Amy have to be the ultimate! One or both were always a step ahead, planning the next event. And everyone (the non-hikers, the photographers, and the serious hikers) received consideration. The trip exceeded our expectations. --RUSS AND ROSALIE WEBER |
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Madeira and the
Azores. Madeira
and the Azores are both volcanic archipelagos rising out of the Atlantic
Ocean off the coast of Europe and Africa. Both island groupings are part
of Portugal and along with the Canary and Cabo Verde Islands comprise the
island region known as Macaronesia ("blessed islands"). Madeira and the Azores both enjoy a
sub-tropical climate and bear some physical resemblance to the islands of
Hawaii. The verdant, sculpted cliffs of Madeira's north slope are reminiscent of western
Kauai while the lush highlands and volcanic cones of the Azores recall the
landscapes of upcountry Maui or the Big Island.
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The Madeiran archipelago, which lies about 350 miles west of Morocco and 600 miles southwest of mainland Portugal, is made up of one principal island (Madeira), the smaller inhabited island of Porto Santo, and the uninhabited Ilhas Desertas. The levadas— narrow irrigation channels that were built as early as the 1500s to carry water from the highlands to drier parts of the island—are the defining feature of Madeiran hiking. (The word levada derives from the Portuguese word for "carry.") Roughly 1600 miles of levadas traverse the island's windswept moorlands and steep slopes. « PHOTO: The walking path along the Levada do Norte near the mountain pass of Boca da Encumeada. Agapanthus and heather trees (Erica) line the levada. |
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In some places, levadas have been "etched" across nearly vertical cliff faces. This engineering feat provides hikers with access to stunning mountain landscapes, some of which would be impossible to experience were it not for the levadas. Because the levadas are irrigation canals designed to move water horizontally over long distances, walking along a levada generally involves little in the way of "ups and downs." On a levada hike, notable vertical elevation gains or losses usually comes only when accessing a levada (from below or above) or when ascending or descending from one levada to another. « PHOTO: Crossing a cliff face: The path along the Levada da Serra in the Fajã do Nogueira valley. Note the wire fence to right of path. |
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Sharp drop-offs (sometimes fenced) can be expected where the levadas have been dug into cliff faces. Many levadas, and the paths alongside them, traverse tunnels, adding an exciting dimension to a levada hike. Many tunnels are short, and a few are lengthy. (The longer tunnels can take up to forty-five minutes to traverse!) In many instances, a flashlight (preferably a headlamp) is essential for successful levada hiking and a lightweight hardhat or climbing helmet (to protect against the occasional low ceiling) is also useful. « PHOTO: Another perspective of the trail shown in the photo above. Arrow shows location of trail along the Levada da Serra. Note tunnel to left of arrow. |
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The Azores (Açores, in Portuguese), an archipelago of nine principal islands, lies about 900 miles due west of Lisbon. The islands were formed of volcanic activity associated with the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, the world's longest (though mostly submarine) mountain range. Lush, green, and largely un-touristed, the Azores present a variety of hiking experiences. Walk along the rim of vast volcanic calderas filled with crater lakes; ramble across extensive high country pasturelands crisscrossed by hydrangea hedgerows; descend spectacular trails into steep-walled, emerald green valleys laced with waterfalls; follow old cobbled paths between isolated coastal hamlets; and ascend to Portugal's highest point (the summit of the volcano, Pico). The Azorean trail system is not as well-known, as well-developed or as well-marked as that on Madeira, and the Azores are still a virtually unknown destination for hikers. Happily, this situation often results in more enriching trail experiences and a greater degree of solitude for those who do strike out to discover the Azorean "backcountry." |
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© Walking
Softly Adventures, Inc., PO Box 86250, Portland, OR 97286 |
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